
May we be candid? We have our favorite guests. We hope they know who they are. When they call to make a dinner reservation, they don’t want to know what will be served. They say, “I’m sure it will be amazing.” They allow themselves to be pleased.
A fair bit of time is spent crafting each night’s menu – Melinda mulls over recipes and Johnny brings home inspiration from restaurants and eateries. We talk to the local farmers and make meals of their offerings. “What would you want for dessert after braised oxtails?” might be typical of the questions Melinda asks during these discussions. Her eyes shine wickedly, the sugary temptress – no one can say no to her when she offers dessert.
Most afternoons begin with Brennan or Lidia coming in to lightly toast the black peppercorns and grind them by hand in a molcajete. The spicy fullness fills the kitchen as further preparations begin. Meats are rubbed with d’esplette and salt, or chicken is pulled from it’s brine. Then a trip around the garden with a pair of snipers, to collect the bay, oregano, thyme, rosemary, basil or mint – all so humble and honestly good when fresh that it could break your heart. Another trip around the garden for braising or salad greens, while inside a smooth and unbroken dressing is whisked up. Brennon accomplishes this with casual care, an elegant insouciance that is the quintessence of the plates we bring to each table.
Mr. and Mrs. R___ are regulars here, have been for years. After they’re seated and we’ve all asked after one another’s families, they sometimes scandalize us (and each other) by each having their own glass of wine, rather than sharing. As the meal goes on, courses are relished and the plates removed. As we collect the spotless plates, Mr. R___ jokes, “I didn’t like that at all.” It keeps us on our toes, thinking of some snappy retort. But of course he loved it – the proof is in the pudding, (or lack of said pudding, a few scattered crumbs evincing the enjoyed consumption thereof).
On the other hand, a diner at a prix fixe meal may find him or her self sitting in front of a dish that wouldn’t ordinarily be of their choosing. This moment, when a diner is contemplating the duck, farro and braised greens in front of them, is a kind of crisis of uncertainty. But the resolution is certain. We often hear, “I have never liked lamb (mussels, mustard, duck…) until tonight.” What this means, really, is that a preconceived idea has been laid aside in favor of a willingness to have a good time. Well done.
This has been another dispatch from The Boonville Hotel/Table 128. Thanks for reading!